PatrickSwanStyle

What hair colour can you use with Chemo

2011-06-22T07:37:00.000-07:00

I encourage all my clients to contact me if they have any queries and this was one regarding hair colour and chemo:

I have just had been operated on for bowel cancer and thought that was all that I needed but found out on Friday that it has spread a bit and that I have to have chemo. Lots of things have been going through my mind but in typical girl fashion I have now got to worrying about my hair! My type of chemo means it won't fall out but I have been told that I can't dye it. I am so grey and it will look shocking after 6 months and then maybe longer. I know you aren't an agony aunt but as I know you I thought that I'd drop you a line to see what you think about colouring hair. I thought your idea of coloured mousse was a really good one.... What are the herbal ones like and can you use any aveda dyes?

With regards to your query...I have just started using a semi-permanent colour made by Goldwell and it does cover grey pretty well though not 100% which can be better as the line (regrowth) is not so apparent, however it blends and that creates a softer regrowth line...Here are two links that you can read a bit more about their products...I have used the Elumen on one of my clients who has a very sensitive scalp and she is very pleased with the colour and results:

http://www.goldwell-northamerica.com/site/products/color/colorance/

http://www.goldwell-northamerica.com/site/products/color/elumen/

Yes, coloured mousse also will of some value however no product the is not permanent will lift the colour...you can only hope for some coverage...I am not familiar with Aveda colouring products however they do have some information on their website and generally the technicians in the salons are competent...here is a link if you have not had a chance to read it:

http://www.aveda.co.uk/professional_hair_colour.tmpl

How to create a ageless eye making the most out of a Nars Mambo Pencil

2011-06-22T07:28:00.000-07:00

I recently had a client who contacted me after we spent a day together. She wanted a refresher on how I help women creat an ageless eye...here is what I wrote back:

Creating a perfect ageless eye using Mambo Pencil by Nars:

I do appreciate your interest to making the Mambo pencil last longer. Firstly the sharper the pencil the better job it does...when I first use the Nars pencil no matter have sharp it may appear I take a clean tissue and gently made sure that the tip is as much of a point as I can get it without sharpening it...ideally one of the reasons is the sharper the pencil the easier and more effective the pencil will be. I want you to put it on the inside of the rim of the eye. You will find that when the intensity of the colour dissipates it should go to the roots of the lashes and create an illusion that they are a bit thicker...it is also one of those realities that nothing stays on the face as much as we wish...hence why photos of models and celebs look so good as they are generally always shot close up just after someone like me as made they look perfect...which is how you should feel once you have first done your lining....If you want to try edging it a bit more at the rim of base of the lashes you may find that will give a longer lasting effect...It is about trying to apply it so it is working its way into the lashes...when I first apply this, even if it stains that inside part of the rim of the eye a bit, it takes the fleshiness away and that is also something that I am trying to achieve by using this method. You may notice that it is natural to tear that may make it dissipate and there is not a product out on the market that will do better than Mambo.

Again there is no reason that you can’t repeat this throughout the day...I know my wife always does her makeup in the morning then a touch-up after lunch and at the end of the day before she comes home and the repeated application does make her lashes look that bit fuller and the rim of the lash line still does have mambo on it...

Another reason I don’t like putting the liner on the outside is it ends up always looking like a line as it gets in the way with the lashes. You will more easily understand what I am explaining if you can look at someone who does do this and it is simply aging to me. Also, as one gets more lines around our eyes it ends up going into them and doesn’t creates the same ageless effect as my method....I hope I have been of some help in explaining myself....

June 2011: BE A BATHING BELLE or BEAU!!

2011-06-20T08:11:00.000-07:00

The beaches beckon, the sun loungers await, the yachts are ready to cast off from their moorings - but are you? The annual agony of picking a swimsuit may also be in view, so here's some advice that might help you become the beach babe you really are!

The ideal would be to have at least three swimsuits, so they can 'rest' in between a day's wear. Include a cheaper swimsuit if you plan to go swimming: salt water and chlorine kill the fabric.

If you have any lumps or bumps, go for ruching. - on the front if you have a tummy, on the side to camouflage any rolls. If you have a bust, look for makes such as Bravissimo or, my favourite, Gottex. You should be able to find both either in Harrods or Rigby and Peller. It's worth noting that the latter has swimwear available throughout the year for those winter sun breaks. Wolford also now have some lovely swimwear and so does Issa, the Brazilian designer now world famous for Kate Middleton's engagement dress. I think the printed pieces that Issa designs are always very clever as the contrasting prints takes the attention away from the hip.

As to shape, here are my guidelines:

The more leg you want to create, the higher the cut
Prints confuse the eye so are ideal for a less than perfect shape - and, as I have said before, the smaller the women, the smaller the print should be;bigger women should go for a bigger print. Have the print on the part of the body you want to diminish. I love the asymmetrical kaftan dress from Pistol Panties at www.foxandrose.com
If you have bust, go for a soft cup so you have support and either a scoop or Deep V neck style and play up your waist. I think a soft short cover-up can even solve any arm issues. Gottex Podium is one of my favourites for swimwear designs.
If you have a small bust, you can take a straight bandeaux or try a two piece with a frill top to add more interest such as one from Chillie at £31.2
If you are pear-shaped, go for a sweetheart or scoop top rather than a V-shape. Also try a two piece with a more eye catching print on top and small bikini even in a solid colour on the bottom to keep the eye looking up. Or try a swimdress style that finishes at your widest point on the thigh.
Avoid halters if you have wide-shoulders and look for a square top or deep V-necks with wide straps.
Now add lots of bangles, flat sandals or there are some very pretty raffia wedges around this year.
Chose a wide-brimmed hat - particularly if you are an older lady - big sunglasses and a bright lipstick, and you will look like a movie star!
Think about your cover-up. Sarongs are hugely versatile: you can sling them around your waist and create a maxi dress; wrap from front to back, then back again under your bust to make a dress; or bunch from back to the front, twist over and tie behind your neck.

As you tan, so you can wear brighter colours - and don't be afraid of white. A client I took shopping last week is 5 feet 9 inches and very pear-shaped (a size 12 on top and, after three children, a size 16 on the hip). We headed into Anthropologie where we found a sleek cropped denim by Citizens of Humanity with a great high rise which held her tummy in and made bending over not a scary experience that looked terrific with tunic tops. What was interesting was that the trouser in white lifted her, whereas the blue denim made her look heavy. And the great thing about white - or khaki or mustard - is that they all look good with any of the summer colours and crazy prints.

Men too can struggle; especially if you are trapped in the Speedo or Cargo syndrome...My adice is simple. For a more manly approach to looking great by the pool try one that is either a cropped short style or one to just above the knee.

May 2011 my 21st newsletter, so I'm going back to my roots!

2011-06-20T07:53:00.000-07:00

Welcome to my 21st newsletter. I've just glanced back through previous 'issues' and see that I have covered so many aspects of the way women can enhance their look, staying not only on trend but also in keeping with their body shape and colouring. With the recent royal wedding I know how much focus we do place on big events as special days require special attention to every detail. One very important element on which, strangely, I haven't concentrated much is hair. This is odd only because this is where I started - my original training was in the US with Sassoon - and I still work on clients' hair along with their make-up and styling.

What reminded me to raise the subject was a recent trip to Cardiff. I thoroughly enjoyed presenting spring fashion shows there at the end of April and was delighted that the audiences were so responsive. Afterwards I retreated for a celebratory Martini at Cardiff's five star St David's Hotel. As my wife and my friends will tell you, I am very particular about my Martini, and I felt that the St David's would probably get it right. After a little persuasion, they did. As I sipped it with pleasure at the bar, I was caught by the style of the early guests arriving for dinner. The ladies had all put thought into their dresses and accessories. BUT not one of them had made a similar effort with their hair. As a result, from the neck up they looked like housewives! There's no excuse. There are now a plethora of 'blow outs' on offer in both stores and salons. So, when you next have a night out, book a 'blow' to ensure that your hair properly completes your look.

Of course, as with clothes, length and proportion are everything. Kylie Minogue is elfin, so even though she is a small woman she can wear big hair. Her very high heels help lengthen her. But big hair on a short woman who is chubby can make her look dumpy.

If you have decent hair - thick and a good colour - it's a shame not to wear your hair long, even though it may require constant maintenance. It's feminine and it is versatile. You can pull it into a chignon at the nape of your neck, and maybe add ornaments, or give it a late Victorian or early 20s feel, or even go for a French pleat, in 50s Gigi style. If your hair is straight, use tongs to create that curly dishevelled look.

An aside: I noticed with interest that the latest trend in nail polishes is a crackled effect, rather like the surface of a fine old painting. Will it become a classic varnish - or vanish?

Otherwise, I'm seeing a lot of white this summer; acres of empire-line maxi dresses and plenty of sheer fabrics, which I think, are particularly beautiful. This diaphanous look is very feminine. Worth trying are the new shifts that tie gently around the waist, skimming over the lumps and bumps. Soft low cowl necklines are also flattering. I particularly like one from Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood at £335.00 at Liberty’

Sleeve length is important too. If you have good arms, go sleeveless. If not, opt for a cardigan as a way of covering the armpit. I see that Madonna, who has always been into body maintenance, has built muscle but because she is thin, has a stringy look to her arms. Better then to camouflage!

With my footnote on men...David Beckham looked dashing and very modern and should be every man’s compass for looking great, especially when he wears his medal on the right side!

I hope this gives you some inspiration as it appears that it is going to one very long lovely summer!

April 2011: It's all about The Dress!

2011-06-20T07:49:00.000-07:00

Am I talking about the royal bride? Everyone else is. No, I'm talking about your dress for a major must-wear-a-hat occasion! So we are talking about a smart wedding, the stands of the Queen's Birthday Parade (Trooping the Colour), the royal or stewards' enclosures at Royal Ascot, Henley Royal Regatta and the like.

These are the times when you forget 'edgy' and go for full blown classic glamour. This does not mean dowdy or frumpy. It means elegant - and attention to detail. Think Carla Bruni-Sarkosy, Catherine Zeta-Jones or Princess Michael of Kent.

I have styled not only the bride but also the bridesmaids, mothers and aunties at a number of weddings over the years, and can therefore suggest the following with some authority:

There are some marvellous dresses around at the moment. Choose one to suit your shape and don't feel compelled to go for pastel shades unless they particularly suit your colouring. Black may be chic but remember it's also the standard for funerals and it is frowned upon at royal events.

I found a darling dress in an off-white crepe in Joseph last week (crepe is perfect because it does not cling). It has an inverted pleat falling from under the bust-line that softens the tummy and flattering sleeves reaching just below the elbow. And it is very reasonable at £313.00.

Hobbs has a range of sheath dresses, mostly around £130. A recent client of mine had both a memorial service and a 90th birthday party to attend. We chose a sheath in soft black and grey fleck that would go from day into evening at now £99.00. It has a rounded neck, perfect for her slightly pear-shaped figure, and a structure under the bust creating an empire-line that flattered her waist. It also had a matching jacket in the same fabric at now £84.00 so useful in our climate.

But remember, for royal events there is a dress code:, avoid very short skirts (at Henley, the skirt should cover the knee!), narrow straps and fascinators since they are not considered to be a proper hat. There's no need to try too hard. Keep it simple. With the dress chosen, consider the hat. If you have a fairly simple line to your dress you can take a statement hat. Even if it is not a Royal event, avoid fascinators. They are - oh I'm going to say it - old hat! Consider carefully before choosing a very dark hat with a brim. The shadow across your face may not be flattering.

Tall and big girls can wear big brimmed hats. Smaller women should seek narrow brims - and wear them at an angle, never straight and never, ever on the back of the head.

Next, check your earrings. Long and dangly probably won't work! Dress your hair appropriately. Think of putting it up under the hat if it is long, or at a medium length, tuck it behind your ears. Short and curly hair can be styled around the hat. Keep your glasses simple - sunglasses similarly.

The trend at the moment is for statement handbags, the bigger the better. But on this occasion, opt for a bag that doesn't dominate your look. A simple clutch or neat shoulder bag would be fine.

Wear the lightest denier tights or stockings. Few people have such perfect legs that they would look good on such a formal occasion. They also guard against blisters from new shoes.

If you are going to an event where there is an uneven surface - a race course, regatta or reception in a marquee in a garden or field - refrain from wearing high spindly heels, however glamorous. You will just look silly when you get stuck in the turf. Consider a dressy wedge that gives stability, but avoid raffia or fabric, they will collect moisture! I love DVF wedges at £260.00 as they are a neutral colour and have as I always point out ”a nice finish”.

Lastly, your make-up, I love Nars lip colors as I have introduced many of my clients to his many shades. One of my new favorites is called Frivolous. The chances are you will have photographs being taken so keep it natural but use a strong lip colour. I suggest for this spring and summer tangerine coloured lip glosses, they work for a real lift and add plenty of mascara as I always say, three coats is my best rule.

Happy Spring!

March 2011: Making a do of fashion

2011-06-20T07:45:00.000-07:00

It’s Lent so we should give something up. Me, I’m giving up stress. It does nothing for your looks! And when Lent ends we will be into weddings, including the big one of course, and the start of the Season of super smart race days and glitzy events.

For those of you shopping for a special occasion, I suggest popping into L K Bennett if you are on a medium budget and Amanda Wakeley for the more expensive wedding and evening outfits. I see that there is a lot of lace around at the moment but this really only looks fabulous on the young. I saw a photo of Madonna recently and even she cannot wear it. I suggest that chiffon or tulle are more flattering since they give a clean line, yet skim the body. If you are older, concentrate on your décolletage but cover the arms. Helen Mirren is a great role model here.

Be sure to get the shoes right. If you have a simple dress, you can afford striking shoes and handbag. But with a patterned dress, opt for something simpler.

I’ve just been to the shows flagging up what we will be wearing for the autumn. Boots up to and over the knee are continuing trends. So are slightly mannish trousers. You need to match them, not with a brogue, but with a pretty shoe, perhaps a kitten heel with a pointed toe. This turns the look from masculine to Audrey Hepburn.

The key trend to follow is the oversized coat or cardigan that envelopes the body. Team this over a narrow to slim silhouette. As always, it is proportion that counts. The magic third piece, as I always call it, should always finish at the widest part of your body if you are short, and to the knee or just above it if you are taller. If you are over 5’7’’ try a full length coat by Martin Grant.

Right now, the fab look for smart casual is the maxi dress. I found a perfect example in Anthropologie in colours such as Whispering Forest or Mantle Dynamics which is highly flattering if you are a bit soft around the middle and don’t want to show too much leg or your upper arm. If you are height-challenged, team with a wedge.

For men, I am delighted to see the super colourful selection of spring tops from John Smedley, one of my favourite men’s wear purveyors. Look at for the short sleeve Isis or longer sleeve Bobby, both of which look good under a jacket, especially on those dress-down Fridays and smart casual occasions which so many men struggle with. A John Smedley skinny blue silk tie is perfect to perk up a white shirt and light coloured suiting will be key to updating your look this summer. Dr. Martins is continuing the revival of such styles as Adrian and the new Dainty Docs in colours such as white, mint, lilac and pink arrived in store at the beginning of March.

Lastly, please come and join me on 5^th, 6^th, 7^th or 8^th April if you live anywhere near Reading. You will find me as compere at the four day fashion spectacular at The Oracle, when we will be looking at spring and summer trends, with themes such as Garden Party, Back to the 70s, White Wash, Animal Magic and Pretty Ballerina.

February 2011 Spring comes early-so shake a leg!

2011-06-20T07:41:00.000-07:00

Great fashion is always about proportion and silhouette. There’s little point in taking just one element; the art form is to engage in the total look. This spring, note the super wide leg trousers - sheer or Katherine Hepburn-inspired - perfect for sexy summer days out or disco nights. It’s what Halston did so well in the 70s. The secret to the look is to team the trousers with a ladylike blouse, in a sheer fabric over a cami or with a pussycat bow. You will also find massive bell-bottoms that make hips shrink out of existence. If you are vertically challenged, elongate the leg with a wedge. I think Alexander McQueen wide leg crepe trouser at £455.00 is an investment piece.

Skirt lengths range from floor length to just below the knee. The latter is where heels make all the difference for what otherwise is a challenging length. Many skirts are soft, yet full A-line with the focus on the waist. This only works with a fitted top and a flat tummy. If this is not you, focus on sheath styles that are more forgiving. Another option is this J Crew is a soft pleated organza style which works perfectly with a tucked in top and unstructured blazer. May I add this favorite American brand J Crew is now available at www.net-a-porter.com

Animal prints - from leopard and python to giraffe - work brilliantly to lift or confuse the eye, as I repeatedly stress. They work well with white or cleverly optioned as a bag, belt or shoe. Stripes are huge and remember, the bigger you are, the wider the stripe you can carry. Many are vertical so they slim the silhouette beautifully. Mixing prints and stripes, abstracts with stripes or animal print gives the opportunity for individuality, particularly for those who want to stand out from the crowd. I love the “All-ages-Day dress" at Urban Outfitters for £160.00 which can be belted too!

As I predicted last year, white as well as soft putty tones continues into this summer too, so enjoy how fresh and versatile shades of white can be. Mix with stone shades or layer sheer pieces over well-fitted camisoles (a trick that allows you to get away with murder but only if you are svelte). The key is to avoid looking as if you have just checked out of hospital, so mix with coloured accessories or go natural with soft leather shade, wood bangles and skinny belts at the waist or slung low on the hip. I think Kate Hudson does this layered look perfectly in the press.

Denim is washed and as soft as putty; mix with oranges, lemony, or fuchsia shades to give life to this versatile, smart casual option that goes through the day to a pub night out with friends or packs for the summer beach getaway.

This brings me to jeggings, which are denim coloured leggings. They are an update on the jean and, as they have spandex in the fabric, benefit from giving support and a higher rise which my clients are always commenting on. A good example is at Warehouse for just £25, much to the delight of a lady I took shopping recently. She had a starting budget of just £300.00, but in the event, probably spent £600.00. An American in her late 30s, about 5’ 7”, she has short blond hair, just long enough to tuck behind her ears, rather like Emma Watson’ s style for the BAFTA awards. My lady longed for boots and we found her the perfect pair, flat in taupe suede, in Top Shop for just £82.00 they compared well to a similar pair at Gucci, priced at £400.00! We were also at Top Shop to complete the outfit: first a longer cut ribbed tank top in a light colour, over I added a soft sheer cashmere racer back with deep-cut sleeves. This layering does not make you look bundled, merely modern. We finished with an 80s-inspired cardigan. A chunky-knit cape would also work.

Men too can rejoice with more soft colours this season. Ralph Lauren does a classic twist with soft coloured narrow-to-skinny shape chinos which are firmly the new denim in light blue and Burberry has lovely shades of green and mustard as well as stone, white and kaki. Muted shades give a lift to denim too which I love, one of my favorites is the Burberry Steadman Birch Grey colour wash denim at £195.00. Key to this trend is the slightly shorter length, softening by turning up the bottoms to reveal an espadrille, boat shoe, or (my personal favorite) a Lanvin trainer which can be found at Brown’s for £390.00. Acne has some killer boots in white snake skin, and white patent leather is a great twist for night-out looks with white denim.

January 2011 lifting out of winter

2011-06-20T07:36:00.000-07:00

The skies may be leaden but I’m already seeing the first blossoming of colour in the shops and clearly more is to follow to offset the gloom of the economy. Start to think vibrant and also pattern: prints on prints, stripes and animal prints. We will have more about this next month. A great example is this Animal Print, Savage Garden Jersey top , which is perfect for a waited skirt or trouser by, Antipodium for £80.00 at Liberty’s.

In the meantime, Mary Portas’ new series on Channel 4 is right after my own heart as she focuses on poor customer service in this country. I agree entirely with her views, and it confirms how I can really make the difference to your shopping dilemmas. I know what works and where to find it!

I spotted Cynthia Rowley early in the 80s in New York’s Soho district when she started out as a designer of adorable dresses and fabulous handbags. I have followed her career with fascination ever since. Here is some advice from Cynthia Rowley on lifting a winter wardrobe:

Don’t shy away from bright colours during winter. She likes to inject deep purple, fuchsia or striking bright blues into an outfit. It gives the wardrobe more liveliness and texture, she says. Another great investment piece can be a trench in a bright red such as Hobbs Frome Trench at £149.00.

When wearing a colour more usual in summer, make sure it's in a season-appropriate fabric such as a stiffer satin or heavy lace. It doesn't convey the airiness of summer but it does provide a more exuberant silhouette, she says.

For women averse to bold shades, Cynthia encourages breaking up the black. For instance: Wear a camel suede or grey leather boot with a black-on- black look, or break it up with an earthy brown belt. All of a sudden your whole ensemble will feel lighter. I love the Camel Shoe Boots By Miss KG and on sale now at £35.00

Glittery or patterned accessories add punch to a winter outfit. Using shiny or glazed materials in your ensemble -particularly your shoes – adds a bit of interest and uniqueness. She sometimes wears leggings or stockings with colourful patterns or interesting details. She has a pair of black "studded tights" that are covered with little shiny black baubles, for example. Whenever you move your legs, there's this reflectiveness that's both elegant and edgy,"

The flash of a metallic belt on an all-black ensemble can bring the outfit into sharp focus, she says. And, the right piece of statement jewellery can transform an otherwise nondescript or dark outfit. Such as the Silver Tone Stud Cuff by Nicholas King priced at £175.00 at Liberty’s.

Despite her penchant for some flash in winter, Ms. Rowley believes people can go too far. Generally, she doesn't mix more than two different patterns within an outfit. Adding colours is not about putting on the whole rainbow. I think it's more about just finding the right palette combination -a steel grey offset by a peppermint [green], or a purple with a deep orange jewellery accent."

The designer avoids wearing summery dresses made of gauzy fabrics - even with dark-colour tights. Gauzes and light crepes can be worn as blouses, she says, but in dresses, these fabrics "are kind of wrong for winter."

Still, Ms. Rowley admits she isn't always the most practical of dressers.

I've been known to brave the snow in stilettos, she says. I never sacrifice style.

Great advice should always be shared so hat off to Ms. Rowley.

December 2010 Sleigh Bells and Wedding Bells

2011-06-20T07:30:00.000-07:00

It is my pleasure to congratulate Prince William and Kate Middleton on their engagement, and I wish them all happiness. Of course, I welcome Kate as one who will be able to promote British fashion worldwide - and no doubt with great style.

According to WWD Bruce Oldfield is tipped to design the wedding gown as he did for Lady Di. However it ended up being an iveory gown with lace appliques designed by Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen. Pippa her sister made her first big entrance on to the fashion scene too in her dress also designed by Srah Burton with the most memorable details down the back of her dress which instantly made her an icon.

I loved the blue dress by Issa she wore for her engagement announcement but, as she is so slim, Kate could have created more of an hourglass figure had it had a fuller skirt. Think of Liz Hurley. She has a similar silhouette but knows how to look curvy. And as we have been known to say in the States: 'What the Lord hath forgotten, we can always stuff with cotton.' There is a truism here. Underpinnings are more and more a part of dress construction. Some of the soft dresses currently on trend come with shaping in place under the fitted bodices.

Returning to Kate, I have been considering the labels that she might wear successfully and promote aboard. Burberry is certainly one, and maybe Barbour, since that company has recently reinvented itself with a range of outerwear that can go from the country into the city. Some of their jackets would look good with skinny jeans or a legging with a high-heeled boot. Over the knee boots are the best investment piece for the next few years.

For day and evening wear there's Amanda Wakeley and even Vivienne Westwood who does shape so well. As Kate is has dark hair and can therefore take colour, she could also look at Matthew Williamson or Jonathan Sanders.

One of my clients pointed out that she sees only the darker pieces of designer ranges here in the UK, whereas in other parts of Europe, the same designer will offer gorgeous colours and fabric textures. This I know and understand. By and large, the British don't like to be noticed, and so don't wear colour. Celebrities and the royals, however, are required to stand out and to be photographed, and so will opt for stronger colours and strong clear shapes. Amanda Wakeley does beautiful designs in fabrics that are kind to the body and help reduce lumps, bumps and photgraph beautifully.

I make a plea for adding colour to your outfits. It's true that there are certain brands such as Hobbs who do feature strong colours. You just need to be aware that, unless you have a dark skin, these colours can be overwhelming, but do consider a pattern can help you deflect attention from a part of the body you are unhappy with, or soften boring 'blocks' of black, grey or brown. This season there are plenty of plaids, checks and animal prints which are just perfect for adding an element of interest. Balmain clearly has some of the strongest designs with detail ruling over colour.

By all means add a little colour to your skin, but here I am talking about lip-gloss and blusher; beware of fake tans which can so easily make you look artificial.

I also must touch again on lengths. They are so important. A dress that is too long at the hem or the sleeves can be very aging. Shorten the dress; add a belt and a complementary shade of tights and you can go instantly from frumpy to very stylish. If you wear leggings, consider the length of your tunic or top. Unless you have a marvellous highly toned body, the top should thigh length or hit you at the widest part of your hip.

Incidentally, Gap is offering some great cardigans, slightly fitted, that go perfectly with either a legging or a skirt to the knee.

My favourite men’s accessory gift has to be the snood as it is fashion forward and will keep one’s neck very warm. What I really like is one can pull it go over the head too, which is perfect for more snowy days ahead.

I hope you have enjoyed my tips and inspirations during 2010 and I will look forward to a New Year with the great style that will come with it.

PATRICKS NOVEMBER NEWSLETTER 2010

2011-06-20T07:17:00.000-07:00

We’ve tricked and treated, bonfire nighted and switched the clocks back. So it’s official: it is now winter. But there’s no need to lose all your leaves over this. You can stay a bright shiny bauble on the tree with a little planning!

This year, capes are big on the scene. I had the perfect example of this last week. My client was a delightful young thing of 24, about 5’ 5”, with lots of very dark curly hair, strong brows and pale skin, and a tiny waist. I was commissioned not only to shop but also to look at her current wardrobe. Understandably emerging from student mode it proved to be messy, showing little respect for her clothes, some of which were several seasons old or were garments that had been given to her. We discovered that some of them had been lunch for moths.

Now I have views about how you should keep clothes. Little biscuits of cedar wood or lavender bags will keep your closets moth-free, and this is the right time of year to install them. I believe in good hangers try John Lewis or The Holding Company along with shoe trees and those excellent sprays that protect suede. By the way, any of these items make good Christmas presents for your chums.

My client prefers not to wear heels as she has feminist inclinations. She is a brilliant young woman, highly intellectual, but given to looking like a student, which is why my expertise was enlisted. We started with boots and headed into Selfridges new shoe hall the largest shoe department in the world and found black suede boots by KG by Kurt Geiger for just £199. They come just above the knee, but you could make a turnover so they are knee length.

On to Whistles where we found jersey knit skirts for just £40. They are double knit so, while comfortable to wear, will keep their shape. These pencil skirts come in two lengths: either above the knee or with a high waist and midi length. We bought both. They flattered my client with her small waist but more generous hips and thighs. There is a trend for high-waisted A-line skirts at the moment but they really only look good on a boyish figure.

Still at Whistles, we teamed the midi length skirt with a cropped jumper with elbow length sleeves, in a subtle black and off-white pattern. For the shorter skirt we found a fawn colour sweater with a scoop neck and long sleeves that could be pushed up the arm. Both were about £90. For accessories, we added a long strand of pearls, which could be double or even tripled a mere £10 at Top Shop and earrings in silver with a slight architectural feel reminiscent of Frank Gehry’s gorgeous but very expensive pieces for Tiffany.

And then we topped off the new looks with the Whistles cape at £235, in black and grey wool. My client looked chic but sassy at the same time and ready to start her professional life.

To wear a cape you must create a slim silhouette underneath leggings and a knee boot or a Capri trouser. Ensure the boots have a heel and your top reaches your widest part.

For other winter coat options these great styles all come from Joseph.

Note the new moves in clothes for work. Trousers are back but they are high waisted, often with a wide or straight leg (think Lauren Bacall), worn with a tucked in camisole, or body like those from Wolford, a white shirt or if you want to be more dressy a chiffon blouse with a pussy cat bow. Throw over a classic, single breasted wool coat - to the knee if you are under 5 7 or three quarter length if you are tall.

Men also like to party and I would direct them this winter to a velvet jacket in a jewel tones such as ruby, the dark blue of lapis lazuli or classic black with a peaked lapel. Team it with black denim if you want to look cool, or an evening dress-style trouser, and dress shirt, with or without a tie.

PATRICKS AUTUMN 2010 RULES ON DRESSING FOR SUCCESS

2011-06-20T07:15:00.000-07:00

Were all aware that these are tough old times and this autumn is going to see many people changing their jobs and the way that they work. I thought I would therefore give you some of the hints and tips I have learned over the years about dressing for success. By the way, my recommendations apply equally to interviews, major meetings, pitches and presentations.

There is no doubt that if you adopt an old-fashioned look, your interviewers, bosses, clients and colleagues will assume that you think in old fashioned ways too. If you want to emphasise new and fresh concepts, your dress has to reflect that.

I suggest that you will also want to stand out, and one way to do this is not look like everyone else. I recommend that, for an important appointment, you opt for either a dress or a dress and jacket. My third choice would be a skirt, jacket and top but, especially if it is for a job interview, avoid trousers or a shirt and blouse without a jacket. Steer clear of black and brown, and opt instead for blue or greys. Pinstripes or fleck fabrics are fine, but probably not a check.

For tops, select a crew neck or scoop neck rather than the more boring V-neck. Wolford may be expensive but has the very best range. They are worth every penny because you can wash them again and again and they never lose shape. However, if pushed, you can find cheaper versions at Uniglow or Zara.

Accessorise carefully. Go for a modern pair of shoes with a slightly rounded toe and kitten heels rather than a court with a wedge or blocked heel, and wear a 20 denier tight in a colour that compliments your outfit. Keep your jewellery simple but discreet

Men should adopt the same criteria of keeping up-to-date. This means a slimmer cut of suit, which is where fashion is right now. And do ensure that your shirt is not just new but also well fitted.

Coats, coats:

Coat collars can be an issue for women with a good frontage. Look for single rather than double-breasted, either zipped or buttoned, and choose a large lapel; though not overpowering, and some shape below the bust-line.

Anthropologie has been around for more than a year in the UK now and has some delightful offerings that won’t break the bank. I like the Tyndall coat in a beige flecked tweed, with a removable flush collar in faux fur, elegant details and, bracelet-length sleeves. It’s just £198. I always think that a three-quarter sleeve is always flattering, allowing you to wear longer gloves or showing a longer sleeved jumper. Anthropologie also has a French bustle jacket at £158, in a soft black boucle with a ruffled neckline. Charming.

(Insert DVF Olive wool cape here) Cape coats are big news. Try Zara or, my favourite, a wool cape from Diana von Furstenberg in a wonderful shade of olive. Its’ a great classic piece, with a slight military feel, at £365, perfect for wearing with narrow shirts or slim trousers.

As I have been keen of khaki and camel for this autumn...I can report that Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2011 show displayed many neutral tones of camel, khaki and burnt tones of orange, which signals a continuation of muted tones that are all around the shops at present and I must say are refreshing options to black and brown. The Ferragamo’s collection featured smocked dress, masculine suiting and safari-style jackets. The real uplift was evening wear which was a riot of colour including an electric blue organza gown that closed the show.

Lastly, my thoughts on lipsticks versus gloss. Im greatly in favour of coloured glosses, which I think makes women look younger. They are an easy way to take ten years off your life but do ensure that they are not iridescent. My choices would be from Chanel, Nars or Laura Mercier. Of course, they have impact rather than longevity. Slick them on just before you go into the big meeting or for a meal. If you want to make them last longer, use a matching pencil right across your mouth first, use your finger to blot so there are no hard lines, then gloss. And remember, if you have a large mouth, you can use a lighter colour. For a smaller mouth, avoid dark tones and go for brighter instead.

Looking back at Autumn 2010

2011-06-20T07:13:00.000-07:00

Pack away the swimsuits: it's time to think boots, cardigans, and warmer fabrics. With luck, we may still have an Indian Summer, but just in case that doesn't happen…
I'm concentrating on smart casual this time. It's a look we all subscribe to and there are some treasures around this autumn. On the trouser scene, look for a denim cut but experiment with the fabric, and consider needlepoint, velvet or leather. If you are very slim, go for a straight leg for a smoother silhouette. To create a leg if you are curvy, opt for either a higher rise slim cut and team with a boot worn over the denim style trouser or even try for a skinnier fit, which coincidentally will make you appear slimmer.
On top, you can choose a tunic or cardigan or jacket but, whatever it is, be sure that it hits/finishes at your widest point on the hip or thigh. Team with a platform shoe, wedge or boot and it's up to you whether you wear the trouser in or outside the boot.
Whatever the trouser shape and fabric you select, you will find it will go with this season's most coveted style of jacket, the aviator. My favourite is the one from Warehouse which is a straight take-off of the classic Burberry Prorsum aviator jacket (£2,395) and at just £300, a fraction of the price. I note that Isabel Marant and Paul & Joe are also following this trend. I also like the military style jackets from Zara, which is another strong and lasting trend.
If you are not into denim-style trousers, you can still create a longer leg with a legging that has some control in it. Go to Joseph, Whistles and Nicole Farah for some of the best, or choose opaque tights.
Otherwise, you will see prints, on prints, on prints if not a dash of animal print on the high street. These are useful as well as decorative because they will camouflage any parts of the body you wish to draw attention away from. I find that a block colour tends to emphasise any problem areas. And prints bring in colour. Don’t forget, if you are trapped in black, you should go for a lift, be it black and white, black and grey, or black and red.
The maxi skirt is everywhere this season. Again, this will look good with an aviator jacket. If you are really keen to be right on trend, go for a midi skirt length, with opaque tights and a boot, wedge or platform. Pick a straight cut maxi if you have a hip, or a soft A-line if you are very slim.
If you want to go smart, think of a dress, a wrap or gently waisted style as they are on-trend and very flattering. Be careful with the length: ideally it should be to the knee unless you are going for a midi dress. Also, try a 10 or 20 denier tight for a fresher finish. There's a re-invention of Christian Dior’s new look a tiny waist and huge skirt but it is really for those under 30 unless you are super fit. Otherwise there's a chance you will wind up as Miss Marple on a bad day!
A perfect example of someone who has dressed well for both her height and proportion is Christine Hendrix from the TV series, Mad Men. She is 5’ 8” and a US size 10 which is size 14 in the UK. She has a good waist, with great boobs and hips (39, 30DD, 39) - the traditional hour-glass figure. What works on her are dresses that are not only waisted but also have the structure to play up her assets. The series has been a terrific inspiration of 60’s fashion, reinvented for 2010. And of course anyone over 5’ 8” should consider a trench-coat, maybe from London Fog (look for Christina exclusive version), Burberry or Max Mara, which not only has functionality but shows gives great presence.
As I have been following the Spring/Summer 2011 fashion shows I can clearly see these trends continuing and even Victoria Beckman’s collection is displaying a softer silhouette.
Lastly, a few words on men’s trends: look for slim cut chinos and for fabrics with a fleck, or a pinstripe, for jackets and suits.

STILA MAKES A RETURN TO THE UK MARKET

2011-06-15T07:41:00.000-07:00

Stila is returning to the UK this July, with a new collection featuring a new Bronzer, Curl Mascara and Liquid Eye Liner...This has been one of my favorite brands for the last 8 or 8 years and I am so pleased to see its return...

ASSEMBLEING AN AUTUMN WARDROBE IN JULY 2010

2011-06-15T07:30:00.000-07:00

Now I'm not urging you to go Christmas shopping yet - even though some shops (yes, even Selfridges) are already opening their Christmas boutiques. But I do suggest that this is the perfect time to start assembling your winter wardrobe. There's a lot to choose from and no matter what your shape or your age, you can find a chic new look.

Take my friend Mary. She is 72, natural grey hair colour, a good size 12 and 5 feet 3 inches tall - and she has great legs. She and I have been shopping together before and it proved so successful that her husband encouraged her to come to me again. We started at Banana Republic, where we found some dark charcoal coloured slim cut trousers in a stretch double knit that we teamed with a single buttoned little herringbone tweed jacket. It was fitted with a bit of ruching and so gave her a longer leg look, particularly when we added a little black suede ankle boot from Carvella. We whipped over to Fenwick's where we found a pair of black gabardine leggings by Joseph perfect for a more sophisticated silhouette as you are creating a leg - and a 80’s inspired top in a graphite shade of grey. As a pair of dwas also requested, we opted for a slim legged velvet style from brand for a modern twist.

Next stop was House of Fraser. Phase 8 had a nice little cross-over dress at £85.00 and it is washable, in a marbled print of greys, fuchsia pink and off-white. It was a little long, which made her look dowdy, so this is being adjusted to a more appropriate knee length. We topped off our spree with a few pieces from Whistles including a green and grey top which looks terrific with grey leggings by Day Birger ET Mikkelson.

There were several of the latest trends reflected in our choice. I have noted a definite influence of the 80’s, though not as oversized or with the wide shoulders of 25 years ago. Instead I'm seeing that volume is being created without the appearance of weight, with finer gauged fabrics or chiffon. This is perfect for ageless women. This allows you to show body shape through the fabric. That's sexy. And go for necklines that are wider and deeper. A crew neck, particularly if you have a good frontage, can make you look bulky. Opt for a boat neck or a slash neckline instead. Underneath you can go for a clean line camisole with discreet detail or ribbed tank top.

Pencil shirts, to the knee, partner well with the 80’s style tops. There are also both maxi and mini shirts around. These look good with last year's boots - either a biker boot or a close fitting book with some interesting detail. Add a shortish jacket or one of the latest military styles, both major trends this winter.

As regards colour, while not advocating a black hole or death by beige, I do believe that as women mature they should opt for a capsule colour palette, selecting key pieces in a discreet shade, depending on your hair and skin tones, perhaps grey or black for the city, brown or burnt orange in country areas. I also favour the new butterscotch shade, a soft but fresh camel colour that is springing up in every price range. It teams well with black or even green or brown. Choosing a muted basic shade allows you more flexibility. For example if you go for grey, you can add silver or touches of a stronger colour for your nails, lipsticks, shoes and bags.

On a personal front, my Champney’s 'Town and City' spa events have proved very interesting. It appears that one of the biggest dilemmas seems to be figuring out what body shape you are. The ideal is an hourglass silhouette (think of Christina Hendricks of MadMan). (insert Christina Hendricks photo here) However your main objective should be to create balance between your shoulders hip or thigh (whichever is your widest point) and use elasticated or woven belts with a great buckle or ruching to create the illusion of a waist. Well, that’s all for now, so until next time…

SULTRY SUMMERS NOW AND ONWARDS 2010

2011-06-15T07:25:00.000-07:00

Now you see it, now you don’t is usually how we view summer. However this summer is proving different (at least so far). The burst of fine weather is still with us and that makes it fun to shop and dress for it, and to be planning ahead at the same time.

My first tip for summer: If you are a woman and want instantly to drop 10 pounds and add a dash of femininity at the same time, pop on the highest wedges for day and platforms for evenings out. What they do for your figure and stature can bring about those glances that set the pulses racing. Peep toes can be a great investment for your autumn wardrobe too. Simply team them with tights and you will confirm the trend that started last winter as uber cool. Without doubt Mui Mui and Prada continue to make the most comfortable and stylish shoes around.

Looking for one-stop clothes that make a woman feel and look ageless? Go for Donna Karen and Michael Kors; both labels have made many of my clients confirmed devotees. Each has its own unique take with palettes that mix white, stone and graphite’s, so you can add bright summer tones for your key accessories.

If shopping for an evening out has you in a pinch, try One Night Stand, www.onenightstand.co.uk. Joanna has a collection of beautiful attire, which, - I warn you, - may give you second thoughts even when splashing out for another special dress is simply not your priority! She is very giftedat helping you select the perfect garment, appropriate to your specail occasion.

Men: Canali’s flagship menswear shop has opened to a standing ovation on Bond Street and boomed over the last couple of months. Brian, who is the manager, has returned to his roots with this luxury label, as he feels that both the heritage and quality this brand delivers so well against other ready-to-wear, with a modern twist and fabric mixes that make quick trips a breeze. You see, if the fabric mix is perfect, wrinkles are not part of the content. Looking crisp and cool is...

Now here s perfect gift for a man, and one I wouldn’t mind myself. Gentry has introduced a tie set truly worthy of the chic and dapper! The sleek wooden casing opens to reveal black quilted lining, and the grey linen tie (parfait for the summer!) is accompanied by a tie bar, tie pin and collar clip all in matching polished silver. Finished off by a cotton pocket square, this set is available at Confederacy at $225.00.

Looking for a quick fix from yours truly? I am at Champneys Town & City Spas over the next couple of months offering ageless style workshops. There’s an hour of me showing fashion of the moment - spot on for summer - - and talking about how to start building anautumn wardrobe. Starting at 6:30 pm you can enjoy a glass of wine and a mini facial while I am espousing wisdom.
Check locations at Champneys city & Town spas and more about the events at hhtp://www.champneys.co.uk/Town-and-CitySpa/Events

Also, I am working on a promotion with Lambrini wines where a lucky customer will win a day with me through a campaign that runs next month, so if you see my face onone of their bottles you will know why!

Now, here is some food for thought. I read in Stylesight, the trend forecasting group: only halfway through the first year of the decade, the zeitgeist defining the next 10 years of design seems clear. Research shows that as consumers crawl out of the holerecession and greed, two seemingly opposing aesthetics aretaking hold that perhaps echo our collectdesires for our economic landscape.Century modern design benchmarked for its unpretentious lines and integrity of materials has begun to influence everything from eyewear to Hollywood movies. Second, Gypset style (part gypsy, part jetset) has a bohemian spirit that challenges conventional.

TOM TOMS & PASTEL TINTS SUMMER 2010

2011-06-15T07:06:00.000-07:00

Glorious summer, we await you in a riot of colours. This really is the season to pay attention to your own colouring and boost your wardrobe with either strong or subtle pastel shades.
A major trend is tribal wear, inspired by deepest Africa or by countries such as Morocco and Tunisia. Prints are perfect camouflage for those days when you feel bloated or lumpy; they confuse the eye, and they are fun for holidays. Find a print that doesn’t overpower you, so you are wearing it, rather than it wearing you. The bigger you are the larger print you can take. If you are small, opt for smaller prints but don’t be tempted by itsy, bitsy patterns which could look too timid. Accessorise with gladiator sandals or clogs, and take a look at your make-up. You may need more colour if you are wearing a strong print. Lipsticks don’t necessarily have to be an exact match; a mango or tangerine coloured gloss on the mouth is very sophisticated.

If tribal patterns don’t suit your mood, there is a lot of white, washed grey or soft green denim around. I suggest you team these with either sheer or ribbed tee shirts, which are great for layering. Among my current favourites are the American Vintage, Acne, Raquel Allegra and Splendid ranges which you will find in those treasure troves of great fashion, Harvey Nicholls, Harrods, Liberty’s, Selfridges and Fenwicks.

For a pulled together look, consider this ensemble I devised when I was in Belstaff’s. There was a stone coloured New Skylark , a belted jacked in light mercerized cotton(approximately £395.00) and perfect to wear over a ribbed tee shirt or tank top, with a white, slim Horse Pants trouser (approximately £195.00), and soft leather New Agnes ankle boots in a camel shade (approximately £350.00). This is what I would consider very classic look.

Recently, a professional in his late 30s approached me seeking a smart but casual look. He was small and slim, with medium brown hair and blue eyes. I therefore put him in a pair of grey Nudie jeans, and a small Liberty print shirt, adding a tie with little bumblebees. Over it, we put a Marc Jacobs fine navy striped cropped blazer (at £385.00) and finished with a pair of Tod’s suede penny-loafer style moccasins in taupe brown. He was delighted with his fresh new look. As an alternative, I also directed him to a plaid shirt, which is ideal if you have a bit of a tummy. You can also opt for chinos if you are tired of wearing denim. Slim cut, the colours to look for are white or washed grey. By the way, Canali, the Italian menswear group, is opening a flagship store in Bond Street soon.

SPRING SPRUNG 2010

2011-06-15T07:04:00.000-07:00

Spring Has Sprung…
At last, at last it is time to think about wedding outfits, white jeans and pastel things, but first, for a change, I want to tell you about some great superfine Merino Jersey-wear shirts for the men in your lives!

I am a big fan of the John Smedley range. The company is an old, well-established one founded in 1874 using the same mills for decades and producing classic menswear: tops, pullovers, cardigans, woven trousers, spring wools and sophisticated knitted silk ties. You will see that lots of television presenters wear John Smedley. Just launched are Deneb jersey merino wool shirts, at £102 (www.johnsmedley.com). They look particularly good layered over the Belior crew-neck knitwear.

Now, for my girls: as I mentioned, now is the time to look for summer white denims, a great alternative to blue or black. They look perfect with this season’s pastel tops.
The shoe of the season is the clog, which of course is just right with white jeans. They add height, lengthening the leg, and make you appear to drop almost one stone. There are also lots of terrific flats.

However, my “sleeper” choice for the season is the suede mesh ballerina flats from Mui Mui, which is a take on the gladiator sandal. The current high fashion style of a high-heeled gladiator shoe is really only for those under 30 with very long legs. Even then, because they definitely have the effect of shortening your leg, you must be prepared to cut your skirt lengths.

Of course, the season of weddings, smart race meetings and other glamorous events is now starting. Women of 30 plus should consider investing in a sheath style dress with a natural waist or a silk jersey V- neck dress such as a fuchsia Issa V-neck at £385 . I mentioned these in my last newsletter. Pinks and apricots are the lip colours of the season so make these a guiding light for your dresses.

Consider your accessories carefully. You can go for a block colour, such as beige (although only is you have dark hair or an amazing tan) or a shade that suits you. Remember, the softer the blonde of your hair, the softer the colour should be. More golden blondes can wear a deeper colour. The other option is to choose floral or abstract accessories. They may date within a year or two but they will make you stand out.

There is lots of vintage still around, with maxi dresses and 40s style dresses. These are great for the younger market but they really only work if you mix them with modern shoes and bags. A denim jacket will soften up a sleeveless dress for a more casual look.
I have also noted that there are some cute little jumpsuits or playsuits out there; the satin one pictured is available at A.S.O.S for £20. These are an easy option for your holidays. You can roll up the trousers for cropped look and wear with them wedges or sandals.

By the way, I am linking up with Ali Campbell to do Inside, Outside Makeovers at a number of Champneys Spas, starting in June. Why not come and see me if you live within hitting distance of Tring where our first event is taking place from June 4ththrough to 6th... Check out www.champneys.comfor more details.

TREND REPORT FEBRUARY 2010

2011-06-15T06:42:00.000-07:00

Please accept this, my latest newsletter, as a valentine! It is created with love to you all in the hope that you will have a beautiful and stylish spring. Now the winter sales are finally exhausted, various new trends are surfacing, some of which you can adapt to suit your body shape, age and lifestyle. If you find this difficult to impossible, then you know I'm just a phone call away.
Of course, not every woman finds it easy to find a perfect fit or necessarily enjoys the clothes shopping experience. One of my clients has just this kind of dilemma. In her 40s and a senior businesswoman, she has a firm, athletic body shape and, rather than a size 10 or a size 12, she is more of a size 11. My recommendation was a suit made especially for her by a gifted tailor.

I accompanied her to Alistair of House of Alistair in Saville Row, and having views about what would work for her and her lifestyle, helped her to pick out a fabric, choosing the colour, texture and weight of it, and select a style on simple but chic lines. We even showed Alistair pieces from her wardrobe that had elements we wanted incorporated into the new suit. The result, after fittings at her convenience, was an outfit that is moulded to her body, the sleeves perfectly set to her shoulders, the back of the jacket following the curve of her spine.

Of course, custom-made suits of this standard are not inexpensive and you can expect to pay between £2,000 and £8,000, depending on the quality of the fabric. But bespoke clothes have longevity, they are classic and will not date. It belongs to you in a way that high street fashion does not. My client is thrilled because people have commented - not on the suit - but on how great she looks.

And back in the high street? I mentioned leather jackets In my last newsletter. Biker or flak, these jackets are being used to dress down anything which is - well, dressed up! For example, if you have an outfit for a wedding, you can later sling a biker jacket over it for an evening out. And leather is cropping up elsewhere - from M&S and Zara to Joseph- in shorts, trousers and skirts.

Denim is everywhere, but now you refuse to match: you wear a washed denim shirt over indigo denim trousers. The denim shirt can be worn as a jacket over a tank top, camisole or T-shirt. And the T-shirt should be printed rather than plain, be it an illustration, a slogan, or a fun sports motif.

And this is where I have a little hissy fit relating to a sad trend in men's wear. There was a look that featured wearing unlaced boots with a skinny narrow jean tucked in. I have spotted a number of young men wearing standard or baggy jeans or trousers tucked into unlaced high-topped trainers. It's a version that does not work.

Otherwise, ladies take note that hair is bigger. Put the flat irons away and invest in hair pieces that attach to the crown to boost and lengthen the back. Look out for quilted leather handbags. There will be more quilting in outer wear in the autumn. See too that the corset, a more palatable version of the Madonna look, is replacing the camisole. And for all spring chicks, check denims, florals and check dresses by Vivienne Westwood.
d
L

HOW TO BLOSSOM AND BLOOM IN SPRING 2010

2011-06-15T06:34:00.000-07:00

Despite snow and ice, I was into the West End as soon as possible after New Year, not for the sales but rather to check on the trends for the coming season. And I am delighted to report there are already some clear new directions.
The biggest news is that there is a return to the natural waist. Dresses have fitted bodices with straight or slightly gathered skirts, and there are some crossover styles. They have either self-belts or narrow belts. So it’s time then to give a break to last year's wide belts that were slung low on the hip. The hemlines are to the knee, always so flattering, but you can challenge the length more if you wear opaque tights and boots over the knee. Tights are up to 120 denier now (starting from about 6).
Another trend to watch is at Donna Karan who is showing biker pants under dresses and skirts. Trousers have a high rise (this is the measurement between crotch and waistband) but otherwise there is a variety of styles from Capri pants to narrow legged with a turn-up. There are a few with some pleating but these too go into a narrow leg.
There's lots of choice for your shoes. I suggest wedgies for daytime, leaving the high-heeled platforms for the evening. If you prefer flats, look for those with a rounded point toe. Add a bag - there lots around embossed with studs. This doesn't sound like a match but sometimes one item that's quirky can give a lift.

The colours for this spring are interesting, with a predominance of a rich red. It's not so strong that older girls can't wear it. How about a little red dress instead of a little black number for St Valentine's Day? Hobbs has a particularly pretty one.

Watch out for laser photo patterns. I saw them everywhere from Karen Millen to Nichole Fahri, and even reflected in Jimmy Choo's latest collections of handbags and shoes.
I am also going to keep an eye on Alexander McQueen's latest fabrics with paint splashed onto his clothes. I suspect we will be seeing that on the high street soon.
Other colours I spotted are in the sherbet range, notably aqua and lemon, along with grey and beige. All these enliven both back and white.
Patrick's rule on colour is simple: try any shade that you are considering against your face. If you look healthy, wear it. If you look dead, PUT IT BACK. After being indoors so much recently, you should blush - on the apple of your cheeks, at the temples, on your chin and the tip of your nose.
Other notables: there are short leather jackets everywhere, which will go well with the little waisted dresses; look out for the all-in-one tops, that is, tee shirts that extend and fasten under the crotch, and be aware that broiderie anglais is making a return. It's in the detail in lemon and aqua at DKNY. And Selfridges has a new section called 'The 90s are officially vintage', picking out Prada, Gucci and Vivienne Westwood.

November 2010 thoughts in retrospect

2011-06-15T06:31:00.001-07:00

I'm all set to become a Christmas Box! And a shopping or makeover day with me does indeed make a great Christmas present for your mother, your sister, your colleagues1 . . .
As it happens, I'm already a prize. This is for an online competition, unfortunately now closed, that had been run by Jigsaw. The winner received £300 of Jigsaw vouchers and a day's shopping with me on the King's Road.
I'm also one of the featured speakers at the NSPCC PAmper event, sponsored by Crone Corkill, at the Landmark London Hotel that will take place on 4 December. It's a glamorous way for bosses to thank their PAs for all their hard work and dedication during the year.
Of course, we are all now preparing for the festive season. I've just been looking at party wear with one of my smaller clients. She is just 5' 2", in her late 30s, and has great hair. At size 12 to 14, we were careful to smooth out the bumps. We visited Reiss and Zara but in end found the perfect little black dresses in French Connection and Banana Republic.
French Connection is offering beautiful dresses embroidered with beads this season. There's one in greens, blues and black which even at £250 is a bargain. It will never date. As this client looks good in a slightly structured sheath, we opted for their Wonder Dress, in black polycotton and elastin at £95.
Our other choice was a black velvet sheath dress from Banana Republic at £89, which has a mini-cap sleeve that neatly covers that little bulge between armpit and bosom. I recommend patent leather shoes to go with velvet, and tights with a touch of Lurex or shimmer.
If you are still seeking the perfect winter coat, I offer these pictures
1 For more information, please go to my website – www.patrickswan.com and look under gift certificates.
to guide you on the current silhouettes and detail:
The grey tweed coat by Alberta Ferretti for example has the huge lapels that are so now. You could also go for a little brightness to break up all the black, and this Giambattista Valli coat in orange is ideal. It hits at the hip line and has that 80s oversize feel. See if you can find elbow length gloves; they look great with these three-quarter sleeves. Finally there's the dove grey coat from Martin Grant at Liberty's. It has a funnel neck rather than lapels and that may suit you better if you are big on top. It has three large buttons, which is also good if you are conscious of your size; they bring the attention inwards.
Other news includes the demise of Prescriptives cosmetics which, if you recall, would customise its products for customers. The other brands I would now turn to for powders and concealers are Laura Mercier and Shu Uemura.
If you are in your 20s or 30s, do check out Anthropologie in Regent Street (not far from Hamleys). It's a sister store to Urban Outfitters and, for you Ugly Betty fans it is a geek-chic paradise! By the way, it not only has fashion but also home-ware.
Good luck with your party shopping. More anon...

Autumn notes 2010

2011-06-15T06:29:00.000-07:00

Goodbye, Indian summer; hello, true autumn. So, fold away the last of the summer wear and consider your coats and jackets. You can either pull them out or think of making a key purchase that will refresh your wardrobe.
This year there are some stunning wrapped woollen jackets that come to the hip-line. This is so flattering, particularly when you create a slim or skinny leg. It gives great proportion especially to anyone 5’7” or below, and is highly practical for instance when you are whizzing in and out of the car.
I also discovered an amazing coat from Theory which has a terrific 80's feel. It’s slightly oversized, charcoal grey wool coat (style ROSEAN DF) at £390 and it is a good investment piece. My wife, Sarah, bought a Donna Karan coat from the 80s from a thrift shop, and now it's totally back in fashion!
Remember that you don’t need a budget of thousands before we can go shopping together. Recently, a charming lady in her 40's asked me to help her assemble a capsule wardrobe to launch a new stage in her career. She’s a highly spiritual person, calm and serene, but her new role may require her to make some television appearances. Her budget you ask - £800.00.
We spent the day taking in Hobbs and Reiss but finally it was Zara that delivered the goods. My lady needed some colour so we opted for the taupe range rather than black.
All together, we chose 15 items including one pair of shoes and one pair of knee-high, stretchable, suede boots. The most expensive piece was a pair of faux-suede trousers at £120. We added long-line cardigans as this season is all about a sleek silhouette.
To capitalise on her assets – as I encourage all my clients to do – we popped into Rigby & Peller to find the perfect bra. The right super-structure can knock years off a girl’s appearance!
So, what else should we look out for this season? Seek out the new 70 denier tights. They give either a dark leg or a great way to introduce colour to an outfit without spending a fortune. You can wear them with a shoe boot or any boot that doesn’t reach the knee.
For fun, add one of the sweet pieces of charm jewellery, either décolletage for the evening or as a pendant for daytime. This necklace features metal hearts, crystal beads and pearls and can be bought online from www.misschiclondon.com
Other news for my fashionistas: GIVe is the new store on Regent Street with the latest range from George Davies. More stores will follow countrywide. It’s called GIVebecause George intends to donate some of the profits to charity. Needless to say, I have already done a recce. There is a collection women of all ages, aimed at affordable luxury, with some nice details. I especially liked the fully-fashioned knitwear with velvet-trimmed seams, and some clothing that had linings that stretch to the body.
Men might like to check out a new upmarket digital magazine called Outre. The first issue features interviews with Marco Pierre White, singer Paloma Faith and Patrick Grant, the Savile Row tailor.
Well that’s about was about it for Ocotber 2010

Autumn Thoughts From 2010

2011-06-15T06:26:00.000-07:00

Autumn is the time when materials become heavier and colours darker and there are still many fantastic items to be bought to ensure you look good for the season.

A piece that really caught my eye was a dress in DKNY. It had a black jersey top with a black stretch charmeuse bottom and inverted pleats around the waist. The fabric and pleat combination is an ideal silhouette to flatter the fuller figure; it is a good cut for those with a chest or hips.

Menswear’s was set for a shakeup with Nicole Farah, Paul Smith and Paul & Joe all offering double breasted hip line wool coats that are a perfect update for your smart casual wardrobe. Dr Martin had some of the best urban walking shoes with style that will keep any man looking younger and hip.

If anyone had been shopping in the high street during the early autumn you would have no doubt noticed the eighties revival was still going strong. The trend of oversized jackets, cardigans and blazer are fantastic for the English autumn weather. They are that perfect magic third piece to cover up with but keeping up to date with what the style of the moment. The secret is to team it with a slim leg: ideally a slim trouser, opaque tights, or mid-calf legging. If you are not a fan of jackets or blazers then cardigans are definitely for you. There are a few that stood out in Joseph, silver and black sequined as a perfect staple piece.

Denim jackets were also going from strength to strength this season. If you still own one at the back of the closet then it is time to revive it. A vintage denim jacket would look fantastic with all the distressed leather that is in the stores. There are however a few guidelines for the denim jacket to ensure it looks the best.

When you go out in search of the ideal denim jacket make sure the material is pliable and the collar able to stand up. Fastening the 3^rd and 4^th buttons only creates a waist illusion. I suggest distressed denim for a daytime look like the one from All Saints or a deep indigo, black or fine gauge corduroy for the evening. There was a jacket out there to suit everyone.

Now that there was a chill in the air and the odd drizzle of rain it was time to start building the layers. For most the first focus would logically have been a good pair of trousers. Denims this season were focusing on the extra thick waistband. This was great news for those women less confident about their waistline. Reiss had a fantastic collection of denim from their 1971 range. There was also a new brand to Fenwicks called Nobody Jeans, an Australian brand known for their 12-inch waistband rise. Other jeans to have had a look out for are J Brand, Acme and James. However if you are not fond of denim was is the perfect time to invest in a good pair of fine gauge corduroy or velvet denim styles.

It was also a time to search for that great pair of winter boots. There were still some great wedges to be found, however the trend it iwas all about structured heels and leather distressed boots. The tough look, edgy, distressed style leather boot was the buy of the season and Venon by Kurt Geiger had one of the best. It could be worn with a straight skirt or trouser and would have gone really well with the oversized jacket. If you are not a great fan of distressed, Kurt Geiger also had a fantastic range of suede stretch boots in both black and taupe and the only wedge style I had seen.

Off the cuff

2011-06-14T09:54:00.000-07:00

Patrick 'Off the Cuff'

What a joy to see sun and spring flowers. What fun to see women blossoming into colour and new collections of pretty clothes!

But we are not into sleeveless cottons yet. I discovered a great investment piece for 'between the seasons' in L K Bennett. It's a silk and cotton belted coat, with outsize collar and reveres, in a stunning shade of soft gold, with a silver finish. The quality is good which you would expect at £295. The coat would look marvellous with either black or brown jewellery. You could also turn back the sleeves to create a big cuff, giving a three quarters' length. This can be extremely flattering, particularly if you have generous boobs. A long sleeve can make the body look top heavy.

Although this coat is one of the most attractive pieces around, beware if you are a smaller woman. My wife who is 5 feet 3 tried it and we realised that the proportions would be wrong if she shortened it. Even moving the belt loops higher may not have helped.

I recently took a client to find the perfect pair of jeans, always a challenge. My lady was 5 feet 5, with a quite athletic build and a size 18. She has dark curly hair and blue-green eyes. I picked up on her eye colour for her for her tops. Blues looked great on her, as did taupe shades and red. I advise everyone to break out of winter greys and blacks and look to their eyes for alternatives.

I have researched the jean scene and I would like to introduce you to NYDJ (which stands for Not Your Daughter's Jeans). Among their designs are jeans with a panel around the tummy to help flatten, They also have a good rise (the measurement between crotch and the waistband) which holds you in and permits you to bend forward without showing panties. The styles come in straight or bootleg. I recommend a bell bottom, if you are heavy on the hip, or a straight leg. Both of these will allow you to wear heels which makes you look 10 lbs lighter as well as lengthening your leg. Ensure heels are chunky or wedge.

My client opted for black jeans and we found her soft taupe suede cowboy boots. The cowboy theme is definitely around this summer. We topped out with a camisole and, as an alternative, a tank top and, added the third 'magical ingredient', in this case a cardigan from Banana Republic. I'm fond of Banana Republic because they only have two stores so you won't see their garments everywhere. It's a US company, so sizes go up to 18, and it's very affordable. In case you cannot get to London, you can source online.

If you are not happy in jeans but need a smart casual outfit, NYDJ offer a straight denim skirt. I believe this is another important trend: long tube skirts for those of you who are shapely - see the River Island tube skirt at a modest £30 - and wide A-line skirts for the more boyish silhouettes. Again, go for platform, wedges or strappy sandals - reserve stilettos only for special occasions and evenings.

Now a little mystery: all the posters for the film, A Single Man, showed Colin Firth in vintage black framed glasses. I researched where to find a modern version. But although the film’s director Tom Ford is a fashion icon and brilliant marketing (he turned around both Gucci and Prada before setting up his own company), I discovered that these wonderful glasses are not to be found, What a missed opportunity! May I recommend you try 36 Opticians www.36opticians.co.uk for style that will be as close as you could wish as they are brilliant buyers of great frames.

Insight to what is to come

2011-06-14T09:49:00.000-07:00

As many of you might know from previously spending an amazing shopping experience with me I am keen to help everyone who comes to me find the best fashion style suited to him or her. I believe that a smart and sophisticated style can be achieved at any age and with any body type. In this fast paced fashion world trends are constantly changing and it is hard to know what is right and what is questionable when it comes to buying for the new season wardrobe. So I have devised a blog to keep all of you, my valued customers and those who have a an interest in my work up to date with my fashion advice.

Over the forthcoming blogs I will be covering everything you need to know for the upcoming fashion seasons and what is new in the fashion world. I will be revealing my style secrets and shopping know how to keep you looking gorgeous. From make-up hints, the latest miracle hair products, footwear, accessories, even leisure wear and travel wear.

There are various tricks in the fashion trade that I will touch upon including styling for different body types, making the most of your assets and revealing how clothing does not have to define your age. Depending on your suited colour pallet there will be something out there for everyone. It is important to recognise what colours and tones work for you individually, this is again something to look out for in my newsletters. You may be surprised just how many colours are suitable, and how one magical jewel tone can reinvent an outfit.

In these credit crunch times it is additionally important to dress for success. I will be able to guide you to a new and sophisticated style at an affordable price, giving you ways to continue to build on a smart wardrobe.

I will be going into greater detail about the all-important basic items that everyone needs in their wardrobe. For example, simple jersey tank tops are the perfect starting point for any outfit. They can be dressed up or dressed down. There is one out there to fit every age and every silhouette. I am a great believer in teaching how to style yourself. So each blog will be like an education for some. To broaden fashion knows how I will additionally be including a fashion word or phrase to really help you get the mind of a stylista.

With these exclusive blogs I also aim to keep you all up to date with what is new in the fashion circuit, from store openings to catwalk shows, anything and everything trend related. I will also be conduction various fashion events myself in the not too distant future, which you will be the first to know about via my monthly updates. There is also opportunity for questions and answers with me personally. Via the contact details given I am open to any styling question and I will use my fashion know how to guide you in the right direction. Whether it is what cocktail dresses are good this season? Or can I still work the flare? Please feel free to contact me. So look out for these exclusive blogs! patrick@patrickswan.com

Spring is really here

2011-04-11T11:53:00.000-07:00

Fantastic looks at banana republic and jigsaw today

A New Begining

2011-02-15T09:31:00.000-08:00

Welcome to PatrickSwanStyle...I will share my fashion sense, intrigues, insights. I have been part of the fashion business for over 30 years. I have never tired of the excitement of how style or absence of effects us all. I love how fashion, music, art, architecture all work together. I speak with conviction, though not always am I in agreement with the business nor do I expect the business to agree with me either. Fickle as I find fashion, the reality is it can make any day a bit brighter. I hope you enjoy my exploration...